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Sasha Mitchell by Bruce Weber |
Calvin Klein: Time magazine
named Klein one of the twenty-five most influential Americans in 1996. Klein
won the prestigious Coty Award three times in a row (1973–1975), becoming the
youngest designer to ever have that honor. In 1982, 1983, and 1986 he also
captured the Council of Fashion Designers of America Award. In addition Klein
built a financially strong company with the continued advice and help of
partner Barry Schwartz, who guided the company through tough financial times in
the late 1980s. Few designers have rivaled his worldwide empire.
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O, Rio De Janeiro by Bruce Weber
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Bruce Weber: More often known for his
homoerotic fashion photography celebrating the muscle bound new masculinity for
the likes Calvin Klien and L’ Uomo Vogue, Bruce Weber’s ‘O Rio de Janeiro’ (1986)
continues to be his most sought after publication. A collection of landscapes,
family photos, still lifes and beautiful models all displayed under the warm
sun of Rio de Janeiro become a dizzying montage of Weber’s subjective world in
what one could call his photographic journal.
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Cindy Crawford by Herb Ritts |
Herb Ritts & L.A. Style: The photographer, known for modernizing the nude and transforming celebrities into icons, often focused on Los Angeles for his stunning portraits. From the bright sunlight locations in the desert to the beach in Malibu, Ritts always possessed an innovative approach to fashion.
He became interested in photography when he and friend Richard Gere, then an
aspiring actor decided to shoot some photographs in front of an old jacked up
Buick. The picture gained Ritts some coverage and he began to be more serious
about photography. He photographed Brooke Shields for the
cover of the Oct. 12, 1981 edition of Elle. Five years later he would shoot Madonna
for her 1986 release True Blue.
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Jill Sander ad 1986 |
Jil Sander was featured in Vogue for the first time in 1986. As an unwavering champion of minimalism—most particularly, the
stripped-down suit—Sander was a key force behind the sea change in women’s
fashion in the eighties and nineties, as excess went out and restrained finesse
came in. Her trademarks were neutral colors, unusual textures, and an open-minded attitude toward technological
innovation.
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Christy Turlington in Helmut Lang |
The Helmut Lang fashion brand was created by
Austrian fashion
designer Helmut Lang
(born 1956) in 1986. The Helmut Lang brand still exists today, but has been
carried on without Lang's involvement since 2005.
1983 Karl Lagerfeld took
over as chief designer for Chanel. He changed Chanel's fashion lines from the
old lines to shorter cuts and eye capturing designs. During the 1980s, more
than 40 Chanel boutiques opened worldwide. By the end of the 1980s, these
boutiques sold goods ranging from US$200-per-ounce perfume, US$225 ballerina
slippers to US$11,000 dresses and US$2,000 leather handbags. Chanel cosmetics
and fragrances were distributed only by Chanel outlets.
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Ines De La Fressange for Chanel |
Chanel marketer Jean
Hoehn explained the firm's approach, saying, "We introduce a new fragrance
every 10 years, not every three minutes like many competitors. We don't confuse
the consumer. With Chanel, people know what to expect. And they keep coming
back to us, at all ages, as they enter and leave the market." The 1984
launch of a new fragrance, in honor of the founder, Coco, continued the label's
success. In 1986, the House of Chanel struck a deal with watchmakers and in
1987, the first Chanel watch debuted.
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Supermodels in Versace |
In 1986 we saw the ascendence of the super-models: Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista, Stephanie Seymour, Helena Christensen and Cindy Crawford were on every cover and featured in every major ad campaign.
But Madonna Ciccone was officially the most photographed and copied fashion muse on the planet....
More Iconic Fashions and Faces of 1986
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Designs by Yohji Yamamoto |
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Popstar/model Nick Kamen |
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Commes des Garcons shot by Peter Lindbergh |
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Linda Evangelista shot by Bruce Weber |
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Madonna & friends by Bruce Weber |
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Grace Jones in Azzedine Alaia |
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Models after the Alaia Show shot by Arthur Elgort |
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Baggy suiting |
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Design by Christian Lacroix |
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American Vogue editorial |
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It couple: Sean Penn & Madonna |
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Italian Vogue editorial by Albert Watson |
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Design by Jil Sander |
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Shot by Bruce Weber in Rio |
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Christian Lacroix design |
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Christy Turlington by Steven Meisel |
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Cindy Crawford
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